Frequently Asked Questions

This is generally caused by problems with loose wires and connections — either at the switches, outlets, or at the main service panel. Lights respond first to any faults in the home wiring and are typically a symptom of the issue, not the source.

A qualified electrician should inspect your system to determine where the fault is occurring. Modern tracing tools can pinpoint most faults quickly without opening up walls. Don't ignore persistent flickering — it can indicate a fire hazard if left unaddressed.

If the main breaker or any breaker keeps tripping and you're not sure what caused it, leave it off until a qualified electrician has inspected and corrected the underlying cause. Repeatedly resetting a tripping breaker can result in a fire.

A tripping breaker is a protective device doing its job. If it keeps tripping, something in the circuit is drawing too much current or there's an active fault that needs professional diagnosis.

In most cases, yes. A fan can be added with a properly rated support box with minimal intrusion into walls or ceilings — even where no attic or crawl space exists. Power can also be run across a flat roof in conduit as an alternative route.

A licensed electrician can evaluate your home and determine the best installation method, then provide a no-cost estimate before any work begins — resulting in a clean installation with no unnecessary damage to your finished surfaces.

For pool equipment installed before 2001, power was typically run in metallic conduit underground. Over time, the conduit decomposes and the internal wiring deteriorates — eventually shorting out and causing the breaker to trip and refuse to reset.

A licensed electrician will need to evaluate the system to determine whether rewiring and/or conduit replacement is required. For safety, leave the breaker off until a professional inspects it. Repeatedly resetting it can cause damage or create a fire hazard.

Locate your water meter near the street and check the dial or small triangle/star indicator. If it's spinning with all faucets, irrigation valves, and evaporative cooler lines turned off, you likely have a leak.

Turn off your main shutoff valve. If the meter stops moving, the leak is under the floor and needs professional assessment. A plumber can locate the source and provide options — including rerouting the pipe overhead rather than cutting into the floor, which helps avoid future leaks from the same corroded pipe.

This is very common in homes built in the 1950s and 60s. Laundry rooms near kitchens were often plumbed with 2-inch drain lines that share a connection under the floor. Over decades, buildup reduces the interior diameter and causes backwash into the kitchen sink — a snake alone can't fully clear it.

Combining hydro-jet drain cleaning with a cable service restores the pipe nearly to its original full diameter, allowing water to flow freely again. Sewer camera inspection is also available to confirm there are no other contributing issues.

If you have a 2 or 3-handle faucet, it uses a valve with a rising stem and a rubber washer. The stem sits against a "seat" inside the wall valve body. When the washer becomes loose, it vibrates as water flows past — causing the banging and pipe hammer you hear throughout the house.

Washers loosen because the seat they rest against has deteriorated, developing nicks that catch the washer and unscrew it from the stem as you turn the handle. Special tools are needed to extract and replace worn seats — this is a straightforward, permanent fix for a licensed plumber.

What you're describing — a frequently tripping reset and reduced hot water capacity — is a classic sign that one of the two heating elements has failed, or the thermostat is malfunctioning. You get scalding water briefly from the working element, then it runs out quickly.

Unless the water heater is actively leaking, an electrician who services water heaters is the right call. Our technicians can test and diagnose water heater issues, carry all required repair components, and test the primary electrical supply to rule out any upstream cause. In many cases the heater can be fully restored without replacement.

That pipe is commonly known as "Big Blue" — either Polybutylene or Polyethylene, popular from the mid-1980s through the late 1990s. Both types are now obsolete and fittings for repair are increasingly difficult to source.

These pipes were typically installed 4–5 feet deep, which is why small leaks often don't surface until they've been building for a long time. We generally recommend a full re-pipe using modern materials at an 18-inch depth — providing reliable service and adequate protection year-round in Tucson's climate. Free estimate available.

The most effective protection is high-density black foam rubber pipe insulation, wrapped with 10-mil PVC tape — both available at Home Depot, Lowe's, or Ace Hardware. It provides excellent thermal protection against Tucson's occasional winter freezes.

Freeze/frost bags in various sizes are another reliable option. For a professional installation that ensures full coverage and a clean appearance, contact us for a service visit and estimate.

Yes — we provide and install custom backflow protection cages of any configuration. Standard off-the-shelf cages often don't fit non-standard installations, which is why we fabricate custom solutions for each specific device and site.

We have installed custom cages for a range of Tucson commercial clients including storage facilities, foundations, HOAs, and car washes. Our contractors are also fully backflow-certified for testing, repairing, and replacing all device types, and can obtain all required permits. Contact us for a free consultation and quote.